On the Monday, Shari and I took off for a drive to Germany. We didnt know where we were heading but decided to follow the signs to Aachen. We also didnt realise that everything would be shut there for carnival also but it is good in a way as I dont think I would have tackled traffic too well yet. Especially not in Germany where I wasnt sure of some road signs and everything. Anyway it was a bit of a Thelma and Louise trip and we had a great time. When we got there we found a park and decided to go for a walk around. It was late afternoon by that stage as we did a few other things before leaving so we came to the first bar and the menu in the window looked good and we wanted to try something typically German. Needless to say that we also didnt even think of changing any money to German currency either. We were being REAL tourists. Well we walk into the bar and what a party was going on. We couldnt even close the door behind us and everyone was dressed in outrageous costumes and dancing around. Even those sitting eating were waving their forks around and singing...lol. Shari took a photo on both cameras and then wanted to leave. So we get out the door and just burst into hysterics. Then she told me about the really old guy in a sailor suit that was waving to her as she took the photos and started making his way over through the crowd.Anyway, we settled for schnitzel at a snack bar that said they would take NLG and then found an ATM that gave us some German money and we went to this great ice cream place and had sundaes. After our stroll around, sundaes and traditional German meal we headed back towards the car. They have these public toilets that arent much bigger than portable ones over there and you pay for them. They are set up next to the footpath. We decided to take a picture of one and as we are taking our pictures this guy walks out from behind a tree. He obviously didnt want to pay to use the loo. On the way home we stopped at Valkenburg to see the castle ruins all lit up and took stacks more photos of all the outrageous costumes. We also stopped at a bar and had a drink where this guy was dressed in a long coat with Crocodile Bundee written on the back. We took a picture of him of course and Shari bought him a drink. Everyone was partying in the streets and bands were walking up and down the streets in outrageous costumes. We had the most fabulous day J
On the Tuesday, Hans took us both to Brussels and I just loved the big market place. I think I took about 2 rolls of film just there J We didnt get to see the famous Mannequin Pis (the little statue of a boy peeing) as Hans said it was a fair way from where we were and a rather long walk but apparently it was only a couple of blocks so next time we have to see that J We stopped for lunch at this French cafe. In Belgium there are 2 official languages, Dutch and French. North of Brussels they took Flemish which is a kind of Dutch and south of Brussels they talk French. Anyway, we stopped at this French cafe and tried to order some lunch but the waitress only knew French and although Hans is fluent in Dutch, German, and English, his French is only schoolboy French and leaves a lot to be desired. You cant imagine the trouble we had trying to order lunch and it was absolutely hilarious. The waitress ended up grabbing a customer on his way out the door to try and help work out what we were all saying. I am killing myself laughing again just writing about it J Also at the cafe, Shari decided she wanted to use the loo so off she went only to come scurrying back in shock. Apparently the bathroom was a unisex bathroom and while it was fine for women with a cubicle, the men just stood there with it all hanging out in the wash area. So in walks Shari and there was this guy standing there with no shame at all J She was in total shock and when she had recovered a bit to go back, Hans had to go and stand guard at the door for her J That cafe was certainly an experience in more ways than one J Shari and I got an embroidered bookmark each as a souvenir but we didnt get a lot of time in Brussels either as we spent ages trying to find an ATM that actually had some money left in it and then Hans wanted to try and beat as much of the peak hour traffic as possible.
Now onto carnival! Well was that a culture shock or what! In the southern Dutch cities, Prince Carnival temporarily takes over the power of the mayors. It is party time again, especially in the provinces of Limburg and Noord-Brabant. Carnival is celebrated in many countries throughout the world. The festivities usually last from the Saturday until the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. Ash Wednesday is the first day of Lent. Carnival is the final celebration before the beginning of the sober, forty-day period of Lent. In earlier days the Catholics did not eat meat during this period. Carnival is only celebrated in these southern states as that is the catholic area of Holland. Carnival originated in Greece. Here it was the custom to mark the beginning of summer with a parade. Dionysus, the god of wine, was welcomed into the city of Athens on the fleet "Carrus Navalis". The arrival of Dionysus heralded three days of partying for the local people.In Brabant and Limburg (I am living in Brabant) the tradition of having a parade and a three- day party continues until today. During these three days everybody wears costumes. These vary from simple, colorful shirts to complete metamorphoses. Everybody has a whale of the time. Highlights are the local carnival parades. Every town which celebrates carnival boasts a parade. Some cities even have a major parade and one for children. Monday and Tuesday here are seen as unofficial public holidays and some people go on a week long drinking party. The parade here in Maarheeze is followed by everyone going to the local pub (cafe). It is then followed on Sunday morning with the headache ball as they call it and everyone goes in their pyjamas at about 11am. There are also other activities over the 4 days and this is only in small Maarheeze. I should also mention that EVERYBODY dresses up, including all the spectators lining the streets watching the parade.
The people of Maarheeze are known as the mouse catchers and to this day this sets the theme for carnival. The local church also has the statue of the patroness of Maarheeze, St Gertrudes. She is shown as holding a pole with the mice running up the pole. As the story goes, the farmers of the Middle Ages used to come to Maarheeze to obtain blessed water in the church that they would spread over their crops to prevent mice from invading. The symbol of the present day carnival is a mouse with a ball and chain around his leg. The second last event of carnival is the symbolic bringing down of the mouse which is a statue sitting on top of the local bank. This will be done on Tuesday evening. The only event to follow this is what they call "Haring Happen". This basically means to eat herring and they distribute free herrings in different locations of the town. I am afraid that I wasnt really up for some raw fish. The symbolic mouse can be seen in other activities during carnival also which actually started on January 7th. Some of these include the mouse catchers reception and the mice rally.
The first event on the carnival calendar is the announcing of the prince of carnival on January 7th. A few days before this, Hans and I were sitting on a stool at the bar in De Smeltkroes (the boiling pot) talking to a dear friend after a function of the local fanfare band (a fanfare band is like an English Brass band with saxophones included). I sat intrigued with all the details of my first carnival. The crowning of the prince of carnival is a VERY big deal here and every year there is wagers and bets on who it will be. For the past 5 years this friend of ours (Marty) has been in the top choices but he will never do it. The announcement of who it will be is always a closely guarded secret and nobody knows but everybody guesses. All night long Marty had to avoid questions by people trying to get it out of him as to whether he would be prince this year. He explained to me that the prince is usually a well known business man from the town who pays up to 10,000NLG to be prince and this is considered to be good advertising as the whole town then knows him. The prince attends countless receptions, functions, dinners, parties, etc over the coming month with his wife who is crowned princess. The prince also has to wear his crown and thick heavy robe to all these functions, many of which are also attended by princes from surrounding towns and villages. From the time of the announcement and right through to the end of carnival the house of the prince is also decorated in coloured streamers, lights and a huge figure of a mouse with a ball and chain. Everybody in town now knows the prince and where he lives.
Another function which is traditional with carnival and held a few weeks before the final big weekend is the farmers wedding. This function really has me intrigued. This is a period function not set in any specific time period but it involves a well known man from around town pretending to be the farmer. He marries (in a mock ceremony and not for real) a well known wife from around town(but not his real wife). As is tradition here, the groom picks up the bride on the day of the wedding on his horse and cart to take her to the wedding. I also need to mention that they are in olden day traditional clothing of a poor farmer and his bride (probably 18th century). The whole town is invited to this event as the wedding guests and as such you take an appropriate wedding gift. For example, when our friend Marty was the groom a few years back, he received so many fruits and vegetables to last a whole year. Some guests brought along whole wheel barrows full of vegetables. Dinner is very traditional Dutch with something like Ertwensoep (pea soup) and brood (bread) as is customary with an old Dutch farmer. For this event, posters are put up all around town and invitations given out that show the farmer standing beside an old fireplace with his soon to be bride sitting beside the fire in a rocking chair and of course they are in period costume. As a previous farmer, this year Marty had to get in touch with the local woman who played his bride a few years ago as they had to attend this years wedding as guests and continue their role. As does other previous farmers and brides from other years. And the people from around town play along with this by coming up and asking them how many strong fine children they now have etc. It is all great fun and as a history lover I am so intrigued with all of it. Although there is no real historical signifance and it is more just another way of partying and celebrating carnival.
I loved the parade with all the colour and glitz. I think my favourites were the bands all dressed up as clowns or in elaborate costumes. The best was the first band that was all decked out in purple satin, purple feathers and purple sequins etc. And the bands walking around the street in their costumes and playing their instruments was also really great. I really couldnt believe how elaborate some of the spectators were dressed either. Hans and I walked the couple of streets to where the parade was and I was totally dumbfounded. Lining the streets waiting for the parade were beds, telephones, bumble bees, angels, you name it! And these were just the locals out to watch the parade. And after killing myself laughing at Hans as he walked down the stairs in an outrageous wig, need I say that I suddenly felt extremely self conscious actually being dressed in everday normal clothes. Next year I know what to wear. Apparently also, if you walk into a cafe over this weekend without any costume, people just stare at you and think you are strange. Well next year I am going in costume and making sure I experience carnival to its fullest.
The other Saturday we went to Karyn and Jo's for the day and it was wonderful. They took us shopping at the German supermarket near their place and I got sooooo many things that you cant get in the Dutch supermarkets. They sure do have a much bigger range there. They also took us to my first toko (this is a foreign tropical food corner store that are everywhere. They mostly have Asian foods but you can also get lots else including milo and ovaltine, etc.) and I stocked up on things like turmeric, cream of tartar, baking soda, and of course my Milo (2 tins actually) J Boy was I ever happy to get that JAt the supermarket in Germany I was able to get gnocci, tomato chips (but they taste like tomato soup instead of tomato sauce), sesame seeds, weet bix (which I have now found in the local supermarket), english muffins, apricot nectar (so I was finally able to make some Apricot Chicken) and more. The good thing is that I have been able to cross off several items that I had on that list I sent everyone. They also sell all alcohol in the supermarket in Germany, in Holland they only sell beer and wine in the local supermarkets. Plus the alcohol in Germany has sooooooo little tax added and is unbelievably cheap!
At the moment I am reading a book called the Undutchables. It is written by 2 Americans who were living and working in Holland for a while and it is a hilarious look at life in Holland. You just kill yourself laughing the whole time and Hans read some and just sat there chuckling the whole time. But everything in it is soooooo true too.
At the moment I am reading a book called the Undutchables. It is written by 2 Americans who were living and working in Holland for a while and it is a hilarious look at life in Holland. You just kill yourself laughing the whole time and Hans read some and just sat there chuckling the whole time. But everything in it is soooooo true too.
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